Burst Pipe Repair
Cut off the flood, then repair the frozen or split pipe that caused it.
Water expands when it freezes, and a pipe that is full of ice has nowhere for that pressure to go. Most Front Range freeze damage is avoidable if you know which pipes are at risk and take a few steps before the cold arrives.
By the Lafayette Plumbers team ·
Pipes freeze where cold air reaches them and warm air does not. In Lafayette homes that usually means supply lines in an unheated garage, a crawl space, an attic, an exterior wall or a cabinet on the north side of the house. Pipes in a basement ceiling near a rim joist are another weak spot.
Boulder County's building publication lists a frost depth of 30 inches, so buried lines are normally safe. The danger is above that depth, where a line sits close to outdoor air. Outdoor hose spigots are the most exposed fixtures of all, particularly if a hose stays attached.
Disconnect garden hoses and drain them. Close the indoor shutoff to each outdoor spigot if it has one, then open the outdoor tap to let the line drain. A frost-free spigot is designed so the valve sits inside the warm wall, but it still needs the hose removed to drain properly.
Insulate exposed pipes in garages and crawl spaces with foam sleeves. Seal gaps where pipes enter the house, because a small draft can freeze a pipe on a very cold night. Heat tape with a built-in thermostat works for pipes that are hard to insulate.
Match the exposed spot to the simplest protection.
| Location | Why it is at risk | Protection |
|---|---|---|
| Outdoor hose spigot | Sits against open air, often with a hose attached | Remove the hose, shut the indoor valve, drain the tap |
| Unheated garage wall | Cold air on one side of the pipe | Foam sleeves and sealed gaps |
| Crawl space | Drafts through vents and gaps | Insulate pipes and close vents in winter |
| Sink on an outside wall | Cabinet traps cold air | Open cabinet doors on cold nights |
Swing open the cabinets under kitchen and bath sinks on outside walls so house air can warm the pipes. On the coldest night, let one faucet drip. Moving water is harder to freeze, and a drip also relieves pressure if ice forms.
Keep the heat on if you leave town. Keep the thermostat above the mid 50s Fahrenheit, and have a neighbor look in on the place. A house that loses heat in a cold snap can lose a pipe in hours.
If a faucet gives only a trickle or no water on a cold day, a pipe is probably frozen. Keep the tap open so meltwater has a way out. Heat the pipe gradually using a hair dryer, heating pad or warm towels, beginning by the tap and moving toward the blockage.
Never use an open flame, a torch or a space heater pointed at the pipe. They can start a fire or burst the pipe. If the frozen spot stays hidden, or you notice a crack or a damp wall, close the main valve and phone a plumber.
A frozen pipe often splits quietly and shows the damage only after it thaws. If water appears on a ceiling, a wall or the floor, close the main valve at once. Open the lowest faucet to drain the lines and switch off the water heater.
Take photos of the damage ahead of any cleanup, then phone. A plumber repairs the split, and a restoration crew dries the structure. See burst pipe repair for what the repair involves and water damage restoration for the drying.
A pipe that freezes more than once is in the wrong place. Rerouting it into a heated wall, adding insulation to the cavity or moving it away from an exterior wall solves the problem for good. A plumber can show you the weak points during a visit.
Know where your main shutoff is and check that it turns. A valve left untouched for years may freeze in place. Replacing it before winter takes minutes, and finding out during a burst is the wrong time.
Hold the thermostat at 55 degrees or higher, leave sink cabinets on outside walls open, and ask a neighbor to peek in when a cold snap is predicted. A house with no one inside cannot warn you about a burst, so a quick check matters.
If you will be gone for weeks, consider shutting off the main supply and draining the lines. A water heater set to vacation mode also saves energy. Ask a plumber how to do this in your home before you go.
Photograph the damage, the shutoff and any wet materials before cleanup, and keep receipts for emergency repairs. Insurers often ask for a timeline, so note when you found the problem and when you closed the main valve.
Pipes freeze first where heat does not reach. Look at garage supply lines, crawl space runs, hose bibs and any pipe that crosses a north-facing exterior wall. Gaps around cable or dryer vents let cold air flow straight onto a line.
Seal those gaps with caulk or foam, and wrap exposed pipes with foam sleeves. Heat tape rated for plumbing can be added in the worst spots, used exactly as the label instructs.
Pipes in exposed spaces can freeze when the air stays near or below the mid 20s for several hours. Wind and a lack of heat make it worse.
It helps. Moving water resists freezing and a drip relieves pressure between the ice and the faucet.
For a long absence, shutting the main and draining the lines is the safest option. Ask a plumber about the water heater and any fire sprinklers.
A lot of policies pay for sudden water damage that comes from a burst pipe. Read yours, and tell the insurer soon after the loss.
Cut off the flood, then repair the frozen or split pipe that caused it.
End drips, weak flow, stuck shutoffs and dripping outdoor spigots.
Pump out water, dry the building and repair it after a leak or flood.
When a pipe splits, the first move is the main valve. Find the valve, understand how it operates and know your options if it jams.
Water left in sprinkler lines and the backflow device freezes and splits them. Here is the fall routine.
A puddle under the heater may come from a loose fitting or from a tank that has failed. Find out which, and what to turn off.
Call the line, shut off the main if water is flowing, and describe what you see.
Call (720) 743-9476(720) 743-9476 · day and nightService area centered on Lafayette and nearby Boulder County cities.